Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Dry Brushing


When I first learned to dry brush it was on ceramic's. And it worked like a charm on that textured surface so I was kinda surprised that I could dry brush on a flat wooden surface. But it's true it really works and gives you a nice highlight or soft little touches of color where ever you need them.
Once I've base coated the design I usually like to float my shading in first then I start doing the highlights and dry brushing works so well for this. Especially if you dry brush one color over another.

For dry brushing I use old worn out taklon brushes that I've been using for base coating and floating. After a while brushes normally start to wear, the ends start to frizz out a little and they're not so nice to use for base coating but they work great for dry brushing.

To start the bristles are dry do not use water.
Dip the end of the bristles in your paint.
On a paper towel start to scrub the paint out of the bristles, remove as much of the paint as possible. Note this is why you use your old brushes because scrubbing the paint out of a new brush will ruin it quick. I like to wipe the brush across the back of my hand to make sure there are no blobs of paint left in my brush.
Now when you go to your surface to paint the best advise I can give is to use a light touch. I usually use a circular motion for large section or a left to right or back and forth motion when painting small narrow sections. Just like anything else this takes some practice to get used to it but it is well worth the practice to learn to do it right.

Notice the highlight and the green moss on the pot also the magenta color on the petals and down the center on the leaves was all dry brushed.
So don't throw out those worn brushes because they come in real handy.

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